We were driving along the south coast of Australia. The weather was not too great and it rained a lot. We were taking our time and investigating interesting places as we went along. Just past Robe, we came across a path to a bird watching platform. As we parked up, we spotted some sort of Kite. This was looking hopeful. A twenty-minute walk brought us to the platform in the middle of a swamp. The rain had become a steady drizzle. A black swan met us. It looked a bit soggy. Drizzle in a swamp will do this to you. The swan is the national symbol of Western Australia. This one seemed unimpressed at being so famous and drifted off into the reeds.
Further down the road we came across a sign to a seal colony. The drizzle had eased and was more of a strong mist. We followed an interesting path with view across a large bay. This brought us, eventually, to a small boat house where seals were playing. Mostly just juvenile seals and very engrossed in their play. It was amazing to watch and very uplifting to see what an enjoyable time they were having. Just offshore a bunch of seals appeared to be having a jumping competition. Flinging themselves out of the water and high into the air. Often launching themselves clear of the sea. Closer to us, on a small partially collapsed jetty was another game. The seals were fighting over prime spot on the jetty. Taking turns to knock each other off. Then posing, momentarily, before being pushed off by another aspirant. We left smiling. It was truly amazing to observe such an expression of the joy of life.
We were heading to Melbourne but still had plenty of time so we took a diversion. We drove due north up to a mountain range in the Grampians National Park. It was interesting to see some hills and made a change from staring out at the sea for hours. Diane love seascapes and would always choose the coast road. I prefer mountains and really don’t understand why people get so misty eyed about a few waves. In this instance we might have been as well staying near the beach. Mist covered the mountains with a solid grey blanket. The road climbed up and down but we could not really see the hills. It was more that we just got a sense they were there.
After a bit of aimless wandering, we arrived at Halls Gap and suddenly found ourselves surrounded by tourists. Since leaving Kangaroo Island we had seen very few people. The campsites had mostly been empty. Halls Gap is a popular area and today was the first day of the school holidays. Suddenly, we were on a packed campsite. Typical of a British bank holiday, the rain was more enthusiastic than ever. The campsite was partially flooded and much of the grassy areas were reduced to mud. Children were running around everywhere. Muddy, wet, excited children. I could imagine how pleased their parents would be when they arrived back at the small family tent all smiling and filthy.
Next day we headed back to the coast. Dropping out of the hills we finally left the mist and the worst of the rain behind us and arrived at the start of the Great Ocean Road. This is actually a war memorial. Built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932, it is dedicated to soldiers killed during World War I. It is the world’s largest, or at least, longest, war memorial and a massive tourist attraction. Much of the road hugs the coastline along the Surf Coast and the Shipwreck Coast. It provides extensive views over Bass Strait and the Southern Ocean.
Right from the start, the Great Ocean Road was one of the world’s most scenic drives. Especially if you like staring, misty eyed, at waves. It was also particularly challenging. In places, just a rough, single lane track cut precipitously into the cliff face. These days, it is an easy and safe drive unless you get too engaged with the view and forget to look where you are going.
We visited a petrified forest. I was intrigued. How does a tree turn to stone? It is possible although exceedingly rare. The organic tree cells get replaced by stone via a mineralisation process. This is not what we found. What we were looking at were some rock formations that looked a little as if they had been trees once. In reality, they were created by limestone dissolving in rainwater and filtering through a porous rock layer underneath. A little like the formation of stalagmites. The tree shapes are then exposed by erosion.
Further along the coast we came across London Bridge and the Twelve Apostles. These are all stacks. Towers of rock sticking out of the sea. The remains of coastal erosion. The coast here is steep, sandstone cliffs. Very rugged and pretty. The Twelve Apostles, in particular, are a bit of a tourist draw. We very nearly stopped but then saw the car park, the coaches and the crowds. Driving just a little way further we could follow a small track to the cliff edge. Here we got a fantastic view of the cliffs and had the place to ourselves.
