The First Opium War began in 1839 when the Qing Dynasty enforced a ban on the opium trade. Opium was Britain’s single most profitable commodity in the 19th century so this was not well received. The navies of the British Empire and the last great Chinese dynasty squared up to each other. Inevitably, the technologically superior ships and weapons of the British prevailed. Hong Kong was ceded by way of compensation. 157 years later, in 1997, sovereignty was handed back to China.
Hong Kong is now a special administrative region of China with its own governing and economic systems. At nearly 8 million residents it is one of the most densely populated places in the world. Hong Kong has the most skyscrapers in the world, the most expensive residential property market and the longest life expectancy. It is one of the most expensive cities in the world and one of the most visited. The city has one of the highest per capita incomes, although severe income inequality still exists among the population.
We caught a few glimpses through the clouds before landing. Gleaming white tower blocks all looking remarkably similar. Islands, water, bridges, roads. Hong Kong looks very modern and busy from the air.
We bustled through the airport without any problems. All very quick and easy. Nothing at all like Manchester. Then we had to find our taxi. I had prebooked the taxi. This usually works quite well. Just after we landed, I got a message from our driver. After we had collected our bags, I checked to see where to meet him. More messages and pictures. Go past this shop. Go down the escalator. Follow this sign. Go round this corner. Suddenly, I felt like we were in one of those TV games where contestants race each other to follow clues and win a prize. Go into this hotel lobby. Down two more escalators. Go outside and call me. Ok. Outside I am out of range of the airport Wi-Fi now. The local phone carrier is not connecting – this is not unusual. Often there is a bit of messing around to get 4G data. Back into the hotel to use their Wi-Fi. Not straightforward but fortunately the receptionist is helpful. I get the message out. We gather up our bags and wait outside. Temperature is in the mid 30°Cs. Rain is in the air. Humidity is sky high. It is seriously busy. People and bags and taxis everywhere. Hot, sweaty and crowded. Welcome to Hong Kong.
We were in Hong Kong for a few days and every day the weather was the same. Hot, humid and raining for at least part of the day. One night we were treated to crashing thunderstorm which rattled the hotel for a couple of hours. First day we wandered down to the waterfront. The view across the harbour is skyscrapers and ships set against dark, rain laded skies. The crowds were unbelievable. It was just an ordinary day but it was ridiculously difficult to walk anywhere. Part dancing and part fighting, we zigzagged along the pedestrian areas. We were surrounded, in all directions, by young Asian people looking at their phones. A great sea of people with their heads bent forward and their attention elsewhere. At times, I felt like we had been pitched into some sort of dystopian vision.
Back at the waterfront we caught the Star Ferry back. This is a classic passenger ferry running since regularly since1880. Often cited as a “must” for tourists. We enjoy a ferry and this one was lovely. In 1897, a double ended ship design was introduced. This could be piloted from either end and sail in both directions saving time and money by not having to turn around. In 1904 adjustable benches were introduced. The back of the bench is hinged allowing passengers to face the direction of travel by just adjusting the seat. The current ships are about 70 years old which makes the whole experience a little like stepping back in time.
Hot, humid and crowded is not my favourite. Occasionally, we would be soaked by one of the short, sharp and incredibly wet, rain showers. We were finding it quite difficult to do any touristing but we did try. The underground metro train system is extremely easy to use and much of it has air conditioning. We crossed under the harbour and explored Hong Kong island. Many, many shops and skyscrapers. We discovered a Marks & Spencer shop where Diane could buy some new undies.
It was Diane’s birthday. We took advice from a mutual friend (thank you Philip) and set off to visit the Buddha on Lantau Island. The day began with a metro ride to Tung Chung and breakfast in a pleasant square surrounded by coffee houses. Then came the cable car ride. We paid extra to go in a gondola with a glass floor. It was quite a long ride. 5.5 km. Quite interesting as well. The Ngong Ping 360 Skyrail was completed in 2006. The day before the official opening, on the trial runs, there was an incident where an arriving car collided with a late leaving car. The system automatically halted and 500 volunteers were stranded for over two hours. The cable makes a sharp left turn not far from Tung Chung and crosses the bay. It continues up the mountain side and arrives at Ngong Ping after 25 minutes.
Ngong Ping is a tourist village. It really is. I don’t think anyone actually lives there. Mostly, it is shops selling either food or souvenirs. We walked on towards the Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha. A 34 m bronze statue on top of the hill. 260 steps take you up to the Buddha. He is really quite magnificent. Sat comfortably on the summit looking all peaceful and serene. The hike up there is enough to feel some small sense of achievement without being a major challenge. Inside is a small museum and display area.
Back in Ngong Ping the heat was starting to get to us. We took a bus to Mui Wo on the far side of the island. The bus was cool or even cold inside and there was no-one else other than the drive. board. The half hour trip felt a little like a private tour. We even drove past the shiftily named Tong Fuk Beack.
At Mui Wo Pier, we were seriously outnumbered by shopkeepers trying to sell us a food and drink. We picked one and drank delicious, ice-cold beer while sitting at a table overlooking the bay. I am neither a fan of lager type beer nor of cold beer but on this occasion it was perfect. From here, we hopped on a ferry back to Hong Kong Island. This was a more modern catamaran where we were not allowed on deck. It was still quite an interesting trip back. Diane’s birthday was rounded off with a meal at a restaurant that specialised in freshly made pizza.
On our last day, we set off to have a walk around Kowloon Park. The rain got us. We walked around most of the park and then the rain arrived. Not a short shower this time but a full-on downpour that settled in for a couple of hours. In the evening, once we were dried out, we set off to get dinner. There is food everywhere in Hong Kong. From simply walking around the streets, you might conclude that all the locals do is eat. Much of it is very Chinese. All the menus and signs are in Chinese. Noodles, rice and many types of meat or fish. We avoided these since there was no way to be sure what we would be getting. Hong Kong is a remarkable clash of cultures. If you start looking there is every type of restaurant you can think of. Italian, Indian, French, Nepali, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, everything. We would start off by using Google to find some type of restaurant, such as an Indian. Then we would go out and find it. This was not always as easy as you might imagine. Hong Kong is a mass of skyscrapers and many restaurants are inside. The address only gets you so far. Then you need to start looking for publicly accessible lifts with signs next to them. Or you might find yourself wandering around a small mall. On a couple of occasions, we simply failed to find the restaurant we wanted.
That was Hong Kong. Way too hot, humid and crowded for me. I often feel like a fish out of water in cities. Imposter syndrome. Everyone else seems to know what they are doing and where they are going while I am feeling a bit lost and unsure. Hong Kong seemed to bring this out in me more than usual.