United Kingdom - Salter's travels

Boston

The next three days took us down the Gulf of Maine calling at Lunenburg, Eastport, Boothbay, Provincetown and finally Boston.

Luneburg is cosy little town designated as a UNESCO world heritage site. We went ashore using Amundsen’s two tender boats. There was much talk about the fish museum. I imagined a museum of ancient, desiccated fish. Old fish nailed to the wall. Actually, turned out to be a fisheries museum which contained many and varied ways of killing fish. Further along the jetty was a rather lovely looking gaff rig schooner called Bluenose II. This is a replica. The original Bluenose was built in Luneburg for fishing and racing in1921. Proved to be good for fishing and exceptionally good at racing. Out of the fishing seasons, she enjoyed success in the International Fisherman’s Cup and achieved a degree of fame. On several occasions, Bluenose defeated boats specifically built to complete against her. Wind power became obsolete for fishing in the 1930s so the masts were removed and a diesel engine fitted. Later, the masts were re-fitted for what was to become the last race of the fishing schooners of the North Atlantic. Bluenose distinguished herself by winning against yet another yacht built just to beat her. De-masted again and reduced to carrying bananas she eventually sank on a reef of Haiti in 1946. Bluenose II is a pale reflection. Not used for racing but more for promoting beer, as a pleasure yacht and, most recently, as a cultural ambassador promoting tourism.

Eastport contains one of the few museums, in the world, that I have actually wanted to visit. Raye’s Mustard Mill Museum. At 120 years old, this is the last remaining traditional stone ground mustard mill in North America. I thought it could be interesting to see how they make the mustard and I also wanted to buy some sample to liven up the rather bland ship’s cheese. We wandered off, up the hill, in the right general direction. After twenty minutes or so my legs were hurting and so was Diane’s arm. Feeling terribly incapable, we gave up and took a short cut back towards the pier where the Amundsen was moored. Here we found a lovely wine shop with a cool cellar where we could recover from our ordeal. Just across the road was a small shop which sold Raye’s mustard. So, I managed to get a couple of small jars eventually.

For Diane the key feature of Boothport was the popcorn shop. An entire shop that exclusively dealt with their own handmade popcorn. She chose five packets with different flavours and then was pleased to be told that, with five packets, she could choose a sixth for free. Generously, she let me choose the bonus packet and I went for “Parmigiano and garlic” flavour. We wandered around the town for a while longer before ending up in a dockside bar. Here we whiled away a very pleasant hour drinking the local beer. I took a photograph, from the bar, of a heron at the water’s edge.

Penultimate call for this leg of the trip was Provincetown. Situated on the very tip of Cap Cod this is a colourful, bustling town known for its big, welcoming LGBTQ+ scene. We went on a short, organised bus trip. The most notable part of this was when the driver clipped a parked car. “Illegally parked” was his explanation and we carried on. We drove round some of the surrounding countryside and back into the other side of town. For some reason we were not allowed to get off. This combined with difficulty hearing the guide made for one of the less remarkable tours we have experienced. Afterward, we wandered around town for a while on our own before returning the ship and getting ready for Boston.

We arrived at Boston in the evening and most of the ship disembarked. The port was a stark change from the pretty coastal towns of Maine. Aircraft were on their landing approach directly above the ship. Quaysides were stacked with shipping containers and lined by massive cranes. There is nothing cute or glamorous about this place. Next day we sailed for Charleston and ship repairs.

Scotland

Eleven years ago, Andy and I decided to sell our company. It was a classic situation. When we started the company we were two computer programmers with some big ideas and very few resources. It was fun. We took risks, we tried to punch above our weight commercially and we worked long hard hours. After twenty years it was all working out as a business but we had lost much of what we enjoyed. We had, of necessity, become managers, accountants and salesmen – roles which we neither enjoyed or were particularly good at. We also realised that if we waited until the “right time” to sell the company then it would never happen. There would always be something that needed our attention. So we agreed a five-year plan to sell the company. It actually took six years and turned out to be difficult and painful but, eventually, we got there. The company sailed off to a great new future and we stood to one side and waved it goodbye. Five years later we are released from all our contractual obligations – the company has vanished over the horizon. Time for a celebration.

For some reason we came up with the idea of a posh meal in a castle. Not sure where the idea came from but some rudimentary research found us a suitable Scottish castle. That meant we were going on a short road trip. It started badly. On route to the agreed meeting point in the Yorkshire dales, Liz and Andy’s Land Rover broke down. Liz is very proud of her Land Rover so this must have been a bit demoralising. A friend of mine, Mark, who spends much of his life driving overland in Morocco, once remarked “A Land Rover is a great vehicle so long as you enjoy repairing Land Rovers”. Much as I am a fan of the Land Rover, I have to admit that there is some truth in this. In best road trip fashion, Diane and I got on with driving north and hoped they would sort something out.

The first part of the route took us up the backbone of England. North through the Yorkshire dales. To Settle, past Ingleborough Fell, past Ribblehead Viaduct and over Buttertubs pass. Wide sweeping moorland vistas under a moody overcast sky punctuated by bursts of rain and flashes of sunlight. It was a terrific drive. We were in our 2006 Jaguar XJ8 Sovereign. This is a beautiful vehicle to drive. Fast and smooth. The 4.2 litre V8 engine wafts you along serenely and quietly. However, put your foot down and you can enjoy the big cat growl from under the bonnet as the car bounds off down the road. We pressed on north through Alston then up through the Kielder forest.

As dusk was falling we arrived in Peebles and the small cottage we had booked at the back of Cringletie House hotel. Liz and Andy eventually turned up. The Land Rover had gone for repairs and they hacked up the motorway in their Kia. The day ended well with an excellent meal at the hotel after which we sat in the hot tub by the cottage.

Diane and I have differing views on porridge. I regard it as a tasteless slime usually fed to prisoners, Diane however, quite likes it. She particularly liked the Cringletie breakfast porridge which was served with a small bottle of whisky. Breakfast done, we pushed on further north into darkest Scotland and the rain. The drive was great. We skipped round Glasgow fairly painlessly and then stayed west through Inveraray. The weather remained obstinately dull punctuated with periods of rain. Even so, the highlands are magnificent and the roads were quiet. Loch Long, Loch Awe, Loch Etive and finally along the banks of Loch Linnhe to Fort William and the Inverlochy Castle Hotel.

This was to be our home for the next couple of days. The hotel is a converted mansion named after the actual Inverlochy Castle which is a couple of miles away. The place exudes a sense of old fashioned grandeur. It also, to me, seemed strongly connected to the hunting, shooting, landed gentry set. This made me a bit uncomfortable. The snooker room in particular, celebrated the murder of many beautiful animals. First thing we saw when shown to our room was a dog bed and bowls on the floor. When we had booked the room, we still hoped the Cent would be with us and the hotel had thoughtfully provided for this. It was strangely disturbing. We had only just lost Cent and I was feeling quite raw about it. Explaining that we no longer needed the dog things was surprisingly difficult.

Over the next days we canoed, walked, drove and rowed. Canoeing was on Loch Eil. Liz had arranged this. Two Canadian canoes and a guide. We paddled across the loch to a small island. It was a pleasant afternoon. Our guide brewed up some tea on the island and we paddled back. All very relaxed. We chatted a lot as we paddled and the views across the water were spectacular. Rather remarkably, we did not get rained on but we were treated to an excellent rainbow. We walked in the hotel grounds and the woods around it. The weather was less kind but the scenery is fabulous here. The hotel is set in a terrific location with Ben Nevis looming directly behind it. When the rain became particularly persistent we went for drive out to the west coast. The little ferry to Corran was fun despite the drizzle. From the quayside are some lovely roads over the hills and along the coast. Views were a bit limited by mist and yet more rain but still full of Scottish character. Back at the hotel we discovered a small lake and a boat house. We borrowed life jackets at the hotel reception and set off to explore the lake. Four people in a small rowing boat. Getting all the way around the small island required pushing through a narrow channel overgrown with weed and bullrushes. Tricky, but we made it and were rewarded with a great sense of satisfaction and some superb views of the hotel with its mountain backdrop albeit through the ever present rain.

Finally we got to the posh meal. This was intended to be the highlight of the trip and we dressed accordingly. The restaurant claims a connection with Michelin star chef Michel Roux Jr. Clearly they are paying to use his name, equally clearly he is not the chef there. The meal was disappointing. Billed as a tasting menu we were presented with five courses. Possibly part of the problem was the vegetarian option. Typically the menu includes wild boar, Highland venison and Scottish oysters so it is probably better suited to the hunting and fishing brigade. Later, I checked the wine list, which reinforced my sense of poor value for money.

In the morning we headed for home via the Tankerville Arms in Alnwick. This is a lovely, classic pub. Small but comfortable room. Excellent evening meal. Friendly staff and brilliant breakfast. Much more our sort of establishment and well recommended if you find yourself in Northumberland.

To Italy

Back in the UK we tried to make the best of our time while planning a trip to Italy.

I started by buying a motorbike. That actually turned out to be quite easy and fun. It helped that I had a pretty good idea about what I wanted. Then I discovered that the new KTM Super Adventure is a big improvement on the 2016 model I used to ride and that sorted out choosing a bike. Thanks to Gary for expert advice and Jake at the KTM Centre.

A mini heatwave was forecast. Possibly up to 40°C. Me and the dog are not keen on this sort of things so, with Diane, we went off to Langley Castle in Northumberland. This is a classic and well preserved 14^th century castle that has been converted into a hotel. An awful lot of history has been preserved in the castle making it well worth a visit. JK Rowling, the Harry Potter author, stayed here once. It is claimed that the main staircase inspired her vision of the moving stairs at Hogwarts. The castle is high in the Pennines where I hoped it would be cool. Just in case, we picked a room with air conditioning. We actually stayed in a converted stable, which suited us perfectly. The room was not only very comfortable but also Cent could walk straight out of the door onto the lawn. His legs are getting very bad now and steps are a problem. We had a small picnic on the lawn and Cent met the resident Peacock called Alfredo.

A few days later we took David skiing. Helen arranged it. She got the idea when were in Grindlewald. David has MND and cannot ski normally but, with the help of the Sports Disability Association, Helen fixed up for him to spend an hour on a sitting ski, with a guide. We met up at the Trafford Centre and it turned out to be really good fun for all of us. David could control the ski by moving his head. Helen and I skied around. We tried to help where we could but mostly made sure we did not get in the way. Diane watched from the bottom of the slope and took photographs. After breaking her hip she is still adamant that her skiing days are over.

The following weekend David and Helen did a single-handed fund raising event. A one mile swim followed by 56 miles cycling and finally a 14 mile run. David can no longer run or swim but he did take part in the cycling stage using a recumbent fastened to the back of Helen’s bike. My new motorcycle had just arrived so Diane and I bobbed around the cycling stage take photographs. I like to think this added a small sense of “Tour de France” to the proceedings. Turned out to be one of the hottest days of the year so Helen did quite an amazing job to finish in a good time. They set out to raise three thousand pounds to support the Motor Neurone Disease Association and Empowered People but eventually brought in over seven thousand. A properly magnificent effort. I am very proud of my baby sister. More details here.

Our Italian road trip was almost ready to go. Ferries and the first few hotels booked. Approximate routed worked out. Other hotel and B&Bs to be booked along the way. Bike had its first service. Paniers were fitted. Gear mostly sorted. Cent was going to stay with Helen and David. He struggles to walk now and their house is ideal – bed, garden and food all within short reach and on one level. He has Misty their gorgeous Australian Shepherd for company. Although a lot younger and far more energetic, she loves spending time with him. And then there is Ailsa, Helen’s younger daughter, who dotes after both dogs and literally spends hours cuddling them. As retirement homes go – Cent had got it made.

Last thing for us was a zip wire. The world’s fastest zip wire is the 1.5km “Velocity 2” in Snowdonia. We had been eyeing this up for a while. Ian, a good friend of ours came along. He and I had built zip wires of an experimental nature in days past. It would be fun to see how the professionals did it. Turned out to be great fun. You are briefed, equipped and packed off to a little zip wire. This is still way longer than any of our woodland constructions and quite enough to focus your attention. The assistants strap you in and check everything while you lie on a short padded bench. Then the bench drops down and you are hanging, head first, on the zip wire. 3-2-1 and you are flying. It is really quite exhilarating. Momentarily you are swooping down a mountainside with the ground flashing past underneath. From the bottom of the short wire trucks ferry the fliers up to the real zip wire. This is when things start to feel a bit more serious. It really is a long way above the lake. The group we were with became noticeably quieter. Fortunately the people that check and re-check the harnesses all seem very competent so I found I could relax a little to enjoy the view. This time the acceleration was much more noticeable and the sensation of swooping out over the lake was terrific. There was even time to have a look around and see where the others were. The braking system at the end is quite abrupt. At the point the brakes engage the ground is close and moving very fast. Suddenly you have to come to terms with not swooping any more. Then remember to breath as you are pulled upright and detached from the wire. We all stood and grinned for a while before heading for the café.

Italy. We were finally on our way. First stage was north to Newcastle, in the rain, to catch a ferry to Amsterdam. The bike was shiny and clean. Our clothing was clean. Everything was fresh and happy. Even the rain did not dampen our spirits. We were on the road again.

The ferry was ordinary but I think it makes a great way to start a journey. We disembarked after a good night’s sleep and an excellent breakfast, ready to tackle the day. You kind of need this because the first part of the trip, down through the Netherlands and Belgium is a bit of a slog. Wind it up on the motorway and try not to fall asleep. The day was overcast and damp and a bit boring. Next day was similar. We hacked across France and stopped just short of the Swiss border. Day three and the trip began to get more interesting. We bought a vignette (road toll ticket) for the bike as we crossed into Switzerland. The Alps hove into view through the mist and the occasional glint of snow made me smile. There are good roads through the Swiss valleys and despite the clouds we could see green lakes and rocky mountains. South of Chur we left the main road network and stopped in the village of Bonaduz. Here we had rented a small studio for the night. One room with a bed, a kitchen area and a seating area. The key was in the door and we never met the host. It all worked out fine though. We found a local shop to buy breakfast things and a small restaurant for the evening. Next day we packed the bike and left the key in the door where we had found it. I suspect this sort of arrangement works better in Switzerland than some other places.

We climbed out of the valley and up to the Splügen Pass. The road is steep with numerous hairpin bends. Part way up were roadworks and we were directed onto an unmetalled section still damp from earlier rain. A heavily laden bike with pillion and road tyres is not ideal for doing muddy switchbacks. We had a few nervous moments but we prevailed. The hill start feature on the new bike was particularly helpful. With relief we arrived at the top and the border to Italy. We were there. Lake Como, the Dolomites, Rome and the whole of Italy was spread out below us. Well sort of. All we could actually see was an Italian flag flapping damply in the mist. But in our minds, the great adventure had begun.