Next day we visited Machu Picchu for the second time. This was so different, and so much better, than the first trip. Two days later, we really felt like we had explored Machu Picchu whereas previously we had just rushed through. For a start, we did not need to get up at silly o’clock and listen to a monotonal monologue that drilled into my skull while being bounced along in an uncomfortable minibus. No. This time we had a leisurely breakfast before a short drive to the train station at Ollantaytambo. Here we boarded the train, but not the crowded tourist train with water and a dry bread roll. Today we were on the Hiram Bingham. This is the name of the guy who discovered Machu Picchu (sort of), it is also the name of a Belmond train that runs once per day. We were welcomed on board by a three-piece band. The coaches were spacious and comfortable. Then we got served an excellent lunch as the train slowly rattled down the valley. Living the life.
At Agues Caliente, the Machu Picchu train station, we were ushered into the same sort of minibus as before. There are only a limited number of vehicles that can use the dirt road. Thirty minutes later we were at the same entrance as before but now we were fresh, comfortable, not struggling with the altitude and we had a guide with a sense of humour.
Obviously, the ruins were just the same ruins as before. We were feeling good and the weather was better. So much better was this that I actually paid attention to what the guide was saying. I was also in a much better mood to get some proper photographs.. The joints in the Inca stonework was far more interesting as was the solar calendar. I enjoyed photographing the window where Hiram Bingham had erased Agustín Lizárraga’s note of 1902. I even photographed a few flowers. In summary, the day was delightful.
Since our previous visit we had been doing some homework. In particular, watching films that feature Machu Picchu. The earliest, Secret of the Incas, 1954, staring Charlton Heston is a classic and the basis for Indian Jones. Much later came Transformers, Rise of the Beasts. I spotted the field that Monkey landed on and the terraces that the ensuing fight destroyed. We skipped Dora and the Lost City of Gold but may yet watch The Emperors New Groove. With great anticipation we are awaiting the release of Paddington in Peru.
Tour finished; we went to our hotel. Not all the way back down into valley, but to the Sanctuary Lodge, another Belmond hotel, right next to the entrance to the ruins. We watched the sun set behind the mountains and listened to a Peruvian ensemble playing some traditional music. Most tourist sites, coaches, bars and so on play a background loop based on El Cóndor Pasa. Originally this was an orchestral musical piece from the zarzuela El Cóndor Pasa by the Peruvian composer Daniel Alomía Robles , written in 1913 and based on traditional Andean music, specifically the folk music of Peru. Since then, it is estimated that over 4,000 versions of the tune have been produced worldwide, along with 300 sets of lyrics. In 2004, Peru declared this song as part of its national cultural heritage. It is now considered the second national anthem. Diane was convinced that the song originated with Simon & Garfunkel from their best-selling album, Bridge over Troubled Water, 1970. Their version, with their own lyrics is called El Cóndor Pasa (If I Could). Google was the eventual arbiter in resolving this disagreement.
In the morning, we were up early for a walk. 7am we started the long plod up Machu Picchu. The ruins, usually called Machu Picchu are actually set in a saddle between two mountains: Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. The latter is the mountain with steep looking steps and terraces near the top. It often appears as a backdrop to the ruins. Machu Picchu is the less photogenic but higher mountain behind the ruins. 650 m of steep steps take you to the summit. We got a little over halfway up but were happy with this and enjoyed the views. On the way back down we got to visit a previously unseen part of the ruins which was fun.
Eventually we ended up back at the Sanctury hotel where we had a lazy afternoon. Sitting at the restaurant table I could look, through an open window, at a birdfeeder for Hummingbirds. It was red and contained sugar water. I spent a very happy hour, with a glass of wine, photographing the birds that arrived.
Late afternoon, we headed back down the hill to meet up with the Hiram Bingham again. On the way back the train stops at Ollantaytambo but then continues almost to Cuzco. A three and a half hour trip. It was xmas eve so our table was set out with a little nativity scene. I liked that the brown baby Jesus was represented as a small corn cob wearing a chullo, an Andean style of hat with earflaps. Joseph, another cob, was similarly adorned. We set the scene up on the windowsill where the donkeys could look over us as we ate. Terrific meal and then we wandered up to the bar. Here a band were playing and bit of a party was going on. Great was to spend xmas eve.
We got back quite late. The hotel staff suggested we go down to the town square to watch the fireworks at midnight. I assumed some sort of organised display. But this is Peru. Everyone brought their own fireworks down and then simply let them off where they stood. It was a glorious chaos. Fireworks exploding left, right and centre. You needed to keep your wits about you as jumping jacks bounced through the crowds and the occasional badly launched rocket shot along the cobbles.
Next day, in the afternoon, we had another short tour of Cuzco. In particular, we were taken up to an Inca fortress above the city. Here we could marvel, again, at the incredible Inca stonework. We also got some great views of the city on the way back down. In the evening we packed ready to join another train the next day.
Hiram Bingham – 10 cars long