Peregrination

Our Scandinavian peregrination continues. Peregrination – “noun, a journey, especially a long or meandering one”. Seems to fit what we are doing perfectly. In the north of Sweden we found a few hills. We also found some snow and many reindeer. There are several long valleys that run westward towards Norway. These are picturesque, quiet and peaceful so we lingered a while.

Once we’d finished lingering, we got the bike out and rode right down to the far end of the valley. We could have taken Baloo but the bike was much better suited to the narrow, winding road. Also, we really enjoy having the occasional ride out. On the way back we spotted the sign for a feature. It looks like this Apple people will recognise it as the command key but in fact it has been used to indicate places of interest across Scandinavia since the 1950s. This particular one was showing us the way to a waterfall. To Diane’s dismay, this involved walking along planks for most of the way. Balance was required but it kept us from the bog. The waterfall at the end was worth it.

This far north it is getting close to the limits of where trees can grow. We had a few walks and saw how you only need to climb a couple of hundred metres before the trees give way to small, stunted bushes of silver birch. Then, a little way higher, nothing but moss, heathers and grasses.

The mosquitoes thrive in the valleys and get quite voracious at times. Chemical repellent helps a little, so does the smoke from a fire, a strong wind and hiding inside Baloo with the windows shut. Camping nearly always involves a fire. There are campfires everywhere and no shortage of wood. In the summer your fire provides protection from mosquitoes and in the winter it stops you freezing to death. Possibly worse that mosquitoes, are their little cousins, the midges. These little blighters can get through the mesh covers we have on the windows. Occasionally, we have woken up in the morning covered in little tiny lumps where they have been biting us.

My previous visit to Kiruna was in 1981 with fellow venture scout Tim Mulroy. We arrived by train in March and set off to ski to Narvik on the Norwegian coast. I really cannot recall why we decided that this particular route was a good idea. Neither of us had skied before and we had never been in the arctic. It was a steep learning curve. We made our way through the mountains, skiing very badly while carrying large rucksacks.  We camped most of the time, even on frozen lakes. There were a few cold nights and some terrible food but we prevailed and it was a terrific experience. We achieved the requirements of the scout Independent Explorer Belt. It is a kind of badge, except that you receive a nice belt with a compass on it. I still have it.

Lappland

We are in Lappland. Not to be confused with Lapland, which is part of Finland. However, both areas are often called Lapland and frankly this just adds to the confusion. Lappland originally included the Finish Lapland but was annexed in 1809 by Russia. Lapland became part of the Grand Duchy of Finland, an autonomous part of the Russian Empire and predecessor to Finland as we know it now. We plan to visit Lapland, home of Santa Claus, shortly. For now we are in Lappland.

Just after I wrote this, as if to prove me completely wrong, we drove past a signpost for “Lapland Airport” in Sweden.

Sweden has a lot of lakes. Lakes and trees. Sweden is mostly lakes and trees. In an attempt to embrace the lake culture I have been swimming in a few of them. I used to be very keen on swimming but went off public pools several years ago. The thought of swimming in a tepid mixture of chlorine and human effluent is just too revolting. You need a shower when you get out, for goodness sake. Also it made my eyes sting for the rest of the day. The lakes in Sweden are beautifully clear and fresh. They are a bit chilly. Some of them are really chilly. Slightly to my surprise I have found myself coming to like this. In fact, I feel like I have rediscovered swimming. The water is beautifully clean, the scenery is fabulous, I come out feeling refreshed an invigorated. Then I have to get dressed really quickly before the mosquitoes find me.

Sweden has a lot of trees. Trees and lakes. Forestry is a national activity. They probably teach it at infant school. My first chainsaw; a felt toy at age three. The forests all appear to be well managed. In any region you can usually spot areas in all stages of the forestry process from the recently clear-felled, through compartments in various stages of regrowth, to the mature trees. This scale of forestry requires big machines, much bigger than Baloo: harvesters cut the trees down, forwarders carry the logs to the roadside and trucks carry the logs to the saw mills. Consequently the supporting roads and tracks are, for the most part, quite suitable for us to drive along. There is a whole network of smaller roads and tracks which we have been exploring.

Down one such track we came across a sign that read “Husky farm”. So we were compelled to investigate and indeed, we found a husky farm. I have no idea why huskies are bred in farms whereas other dogs are bred in kennels. The owner, Constantin, was very friendly and happy to show us round. This despite the recent downturn in tourism which just about drove his business down to nothing. The dogs are quite small, very fit and agile, bred for stamina rather than strength. They were also very friendly and much calmer than I had expected. This time of year it is too hot to run them so mostly they just laze around but they seemed very happy doing this.

Pushing further north the countryside becomes more rugged, people are more sparse and the mosquitoes are more voracious. We saw an Elk which I completely failed to photograph. We have also see quite a lot of reindeer. Trying to photograph these is tricky because they always spot you first and wander off. We have a lot of pictures of reindeer bottoms. Eventually we crossed the Arctic circle. This is the geographic line that marks the start of the midnight sun. A roadside parking area marked the line and some large billboards announced the grandeur of the midnight sun. However, it was overcast, cold and raining so some of the splendor of crossing the line might have been lost on us.

Sweden

In two months we have to be back in the UK. We figured this was just long enough to circumnavigate the Gulf of Bothnia. We would see a bit more Scandinavia, this time in the summer, and more of eastern Europe.

We took our time heading north. Settling back into the rhythm of travelling while exploring some of the wonderful forests in northern Germany. The forests are suffering at the moment. Extreme weather events, three successive droughts, storms and forest fires are taking their toll. Some areas have massive bark beetle infections. Vast tracts of forest are being clear-felled, leaving the hills bruised, battered and bare.

In the very north of Germany we visited Kai and his wife Urte whom we had first met outside the walls of Taroudant in Morocco. We had a terrific evening eating, drinking and listening to some remarkable and scary tales of their desert travels in a Unimog back in the days when it was actually possible to drive south to north through Algeria. Next day we crossed into Denmark and spent a couple of days with the ever wonderful Lars and Inge. They loaded us up with fantastic homemade and home grown produce before we headed for the coast.

A quiet night on the beach and we were ready for the ferry to Sweden. Two years ago we had driven over the bridge from Copenhagen. The bridge is an awesome engineering achievement and fun to drive across. It is also very expensive. This time we took the slightly cheaper and much more sedate ferry to Halmstad. By the evening we were parked next to some woods in Sweden.

North and still further north. For the first couple of days it rained. We plodded along in the drizzle watching endless forests and lakes go past. Before long the roads were getting quieter and we felt we were leaving the bustle of holiday season in southern Sweden behind us.

We both enjoy being in and around woodland. In years past, we owned a small plot of ancient woodland. This was a complete delight and the perfect retreat from the stresses of running a small company. It also taught both of us a lot. We achieved a formal qualification in woodland management but more importantly, we also learned to deeply appreciate what goes on in the forest. The way balance is achieved and the delicate interactions between the vast multitude of living things deep in a forest is quite remarkable. These days we are very happy to spend time exploring and experiencing new forests.

The weather cleared up just as we happened to find ourselves in a quiet, secluded area of forest. So we stayed there for a while. Exploring the forest we discovered discarded antlers and other traces of reindeer. We also found an abundance of fungi. I was particularly proud to find an example of the mushroom featured on the cover picture of my mushroom book. We also found a wonderful edible fungus called Hedgehog mushroom. This is a firm, white mushroom that makes excellent eating. After a bit of sorting, we gently fried them in butter with a dash of fresh thyme and black pepper. Went perfectly with a glass of white wine.