Valles

Passo Pordoi has 33 hairpin bends and climbs to 2,950 m. It was fun but very slow going. Several corners required shunts to get round. The views, however, were spectacular and the towering cliffs of the Dolomites add drama with a hint of danger. Fortunately there was very little traffic otherwise we might have caused a few queues. We arrived in Arabba late in the afternoon and found a great motorhome parking site ideally suited to Baloo – big grate for emptying the tanks, fast fresh water tap and plenty of space – perfect.

The next day, the forecast promised “light snow”. As it turned out there was about 50cm of light snow. We dug the snow shoes out and took Cent for a walk in the woods.

The next couple of days, I went skiing. Diane was not so keen. There was quite a long walk up to the ticket office and lifts. Tricky in ski boots. The conditions for skiing were not so great and the slopes were very crowded. The fresh snow had been chewed into moguls and icy patches within hours. After a 50 minute queue for the cable car, I made it up to the top of Marmolade – the highest peak in the area. Very cold and windy. Also very crowded. Getting down on hard, icy snow and very busy slopes proved to be quite difficult and not much fun.

Time to move on. We drove north and up an easy valley to the little village of Valles. By now the weather was overcast and drizzling. We walked around the village. Next day we walked up the valley and discovered Llamas and wooden sheep with strings on. Finally, the weather came good and we went skiing. The snow was not brilliant, a bit slushy and heavy for turning. However, the sun was shining and the slopes were not too busy. We had a pleasant day. Come late afternoon we set off home. Disaster, in the shape of a young lad skiing backwards, struck. He caught Diane’s skis and flipped her down the slope. She landed with a bit of thump but, initially, thought that she had just acquired another bruise. Five minutes later she was back on her feet but very shortly after that she realized that she could not really stand up at all. The lad and his parents had long since gone. I called the ski rescue who, quite remarkably, turned up less than five minutes later. By the time we had loaded Diane into a sledge behind a snow-mobile, she was getting very uncomfortable. Painful waves of cramp all the way down her thigh.

At Brixen hospital they discovered that Diane had broken her femur. Snapped it clean through so that the ball of her hip joint was detached. The same evening, surgeons operated to pin the joint back together. They are very experienced with ski injuries here and very good at fixing them. I moved Baloo down the valley closer to the hospital. Me and the dog sat down and waited. Because of Covid, I was not allowed into the hospital so I next saw Diane when she was discharged three days later.

Carezza

We finally made it to Italy. But we went to Austria first. From Samnaun there are only two roads. Staying in Switzerland involves driving through some very small tunnels. A larger vehicle, like Baloo, needs to drive down the other side of the valley in Austria. At the bottom of the valley you can immediately turn west and go back into Switzerland. Or you can continue south on a well-made, modern main road some ten kilometers to Italy. The only problem with the route Italy are the ubiquitous Austrian 7.5t weight limit signs. We risked it  and a short while later arrived at the border to Italy where, somewhat to my surprise, we got stopped by the police. Not the Austrian police, who were nowhere to be seen, these guys were Italian. They checked the vehicle documents, my driving license and our passports. Fortunately everything was in order and a few minutes later we were on our way. We finally made it to Italy.

A day later we were in the Dolomites. This is a fantastic area. 18 steep, rocky peaks rising to over 3,000m, crisscrossed by deep, narrow picturesque valleys. Vertical walls, bare rock, narrow winding roads and postcard villages. It is also home to one of the largest ski areas in the world. A network of lifts and pistes collectively referred to as Dolomiti Superski.

Last year, while we were parked in Samnaun, we made friends with Carston and Silke, who were parked next to us in their remarkable motorhome with a Porche in the back. They gave us some really good pointers for parking and skiing in the Dolomites. Thank you! Our first stop was Carezza. Small village, small ski area, very pretty. Ideal for us to hang out for a few days. The skiing was good in that the pistes were well prepared and there were some interesting places to visit. However, in general there is not a lot of snow here. Not as much as you would hope for mid-February. So off-piste there is not really any skiing at all. None the less, we had a few excellent days, saw the sights and enjoyed the location.

Our final task was to look out some Legrein wine. Thanks for the suggestion Max. Legrein is a red wine grape variety local to this area. Apparently the wine is rarely exported so you will seldom find it elsewhere. Wikipedia tells me that it is becoming increasingly popular in Australia. It also tells me that Legrein produces wines with high acidity that are congenial and straightforward. Deliciously plummy, earthy and chewy, dark and full-bodied but not heavy, with a pronounced minerally edge. I agree – although I might have struggled over the description. We have been trying wine from several producers. It is reasonably priced and really nice. Think I may go and try another glass just now. Cheers.