Sweden

In two months we have to be back in the UK. We figured this was just long enough to circumnavigate the Gulf of Bothnia. We would see a bit more Scandinavia, this time in the summer, and more of eastern Europe.

We took our time heading north. Settling back into the rhythm of travelling while exploring some of the wonderful forests in northern Germany. The forests are suffering at the moment. Extreme weather events, three successive droughts, storms and forest fires are taking their toll. Some areas have massive bark beetle infections. Vast tracts of forest are being clear-felled, leaving the hills bruised, battered and bare.

In the very north of Germany we visited Kai and his wife Urte whom we had first met outside the walls of Taroudant in Morocco. We had a terrific evening eating, drinking and listening to some remarkable and scary tales of their desert travels in a Unimog back in the days when it was actually possible to drive south to north through Algeria. Next day we crossed into Denmark and spent a couple of days with the ever wonderful Lars and Inge. They loaded us up with fantastic homemade and home grown produce before we headed for the coast.

A quiet night on the beach and we were ready for the ferry to Sweden. Two years ago we had driven over the bridge from Copenhagen. The bridge is an awesome engineering achievement and fun to drive across. It is also very expensive. This time we took the slightly cheaper and much more sedate ferry to Halmstad. By the evening we were parked next to some woods in Sweden.

North and still further north. For the first couple of days it rained. We plodded along in the drizzle watching endless forests and lakes go past. Before long the roads were getting quieter and we felt we were leaving the bustle of holiday season in southern Sweden behind us.

We both enjoy being in and around woodland. In years past, we owned a small plot of ancient woodland. This was a complete delight and the perfect retreat from the stresses of running a small company. It also taught both of us a lot. We achieved a formal qualification in woodland management but more importantly, we also learned to deeply appreciate what goes on in the forest. The way balance is achieved and the delicate interactions between the vast multitude of living things deep in a forest is quite remarkable. These days we are very happy to spend time exploring and experiencing new forests.

The weather cleared up just as we happened to find ourselves in a quiet, secluded area of forest. So we stayed there for a while. Exploring the forest we discovered discarded antlers and other traces of reindeer. We also found an abundance of fungi. I was particularly proud to find an example of the mushroom featured on the cover picture of my mushroom book. We also found a wonderful edible fungus called Hedgehog mushroom. This is a firm, white mushroom that makes excellent eating. After a bit of sorting, we gently fried them in butter with a dash of fresh thyme and black pepper. Went perfectly with a glass of white wine.

Kristiansand to Denmark

Our last few days in Scandinavia and Norway continued to deliver. We’ve seen quite a lot of Norway now and the scenery everywhere is fabulous. Mountains, fjords, ferociously steep cliffs and gorgeous views. The roads are generally quiet, the people friendly and the travelling easy.

This sheep was giving us the eye – but generally Norway is a very friendly place

This is how we like to park up for the night. First, get off the road. 2. Drive down a nice track. 3. Find a quiet and peaceful parking place. 4. Feel smug. 5. Enjoy the view while cooking dinner.

Eventually we ran out of Norway. We’d started at the very top and had now reached the very bottom. It was a good trip and we’d like to come back for another go someday. On the northward leg we had used the Øresund Bridge. Described as an engineering marvel, it connects Copenhagen with Malmö in Sweden and gives the northbound traveller excellent access to the central Scandinavian hinterland. It is 8km long and starts in a tunnel. It is, without doubt, very impressive. The toll fee is also impressive. Eye wateringly so.

For the return trip we took the ferry from Kristiansand to Hirtshals in Denmark. There are two vessels that run this route. The HSC Fjord Cat is one of the fastest car carrying ferries in the world and does over 40 knots. We took Colorline Superspeed, another big, fast, comfortable catamaran that is more pedestrian and cheaper.   

Back in Denmark we ended the trip where we had started, three months earlier, with the wonderful Lars and Inge. The sun was shining. We hopped in one of their many Land Rovers and went for a picnic. Perfect.

After Denmark came the mostly boring trek back to the Unicat workshop in Germany. We paused briefly at the Kiel Canal. Watching the ships go past was fun for a while but they keep going all night and it did get to be a bit noisy for sleeping.

Denmark

A tremendous rainbow marked our departure from the workshop and the start of a long trek North. In Denmark we met up with some old friends, the marvelous Lars and Inge, who thoroughly maintain the Danish reputation for being the happiest people in the world. We left Denmark via the Öresund Bridge – a magnificent feat of engineering and possibly the most expensive toll bridge in the world.