Back in the UK we tried to make the best of our time while planning a trip to Italy.
I started by buying a motorbike. That actually turned out to be quite easy and fun. It helped that I had a pretty good idea about what I wanted. Then I discovered that the new KTM Super Adventure is a big improvement on the 2016 model I used to ride and that sorted out choosing a bike. Thanks to Gary for expert advice and Jake at the KTM Centre.
A mini heatwave was forecast. Possibly up to 40°C. Me and the dog are not keen on this sort of things so, with Diane, we went off to Langley Castle in Northumberland. This is a classic and well preserved 14th century castle that has been converted into a hotel. An awful lot of history has been preserved in the castle making it well worth a visit. JK Rowling, the Harry Potter author, stayed here once. It is claimed that the main staircase inspired her vision of the moving stairs at Hogwarts. The castle is high in the Pennines where I hoped it would be cool. Just in case, we picked a room with air conditioning. We actually stayed in a converted stable, which suited us perfectly. The room was not only very comfortable but also Cent could walk straight out of the door onto the lawn. His legs are getting very bad now and steps are a problem. We had a small picnic on the lawn and Cent met the resident Peacock called Alfredo.
A few days later we took David skiing. Helen arranged it. She got the idea when were in Grindlewald. David has MND and cannot ski normally but, with the help of the Sports Disability Association, Helen fixed up for him to spend an hour on a sitting ski, with a guide. We met up at the Trafford Centre and it turned out to be really good fun for all of us. David could control the ski by moving his head. Helen and I skied around. We tried to help where we could but mostly made sure we did not get in the way. Diane watched from the bottom of the slope and took photographs. After breaking her hip she is still adamant that her skiing days are over.
The following weekend David and Helen did a single-handed fund raising event. A one mile swim followed by 56 miles cycling and finally a 14 mile run. David can no longer run or swim but he did take part in the cycling stage using a recumbent fastened to the back of Helen’s bike. My new motorcycle had just arrived so Diane and I bobbed around the cycling stage take photographs. I like to think this added a small sense of “Tour de France” to the proceedings. Turned out to be one of the hottest days of the year so Helen did quite an amazing job to finish in a good time. They set out to raise three thousand pounds to support the Motor Neurone Disease Association and Empowered People but eventually brought in over seven thousand. A properly magnificent effort. I am very proud of my baby sister. More details here.
Our Italian road trip was almost ready to go. Ferries and the first few hotels booked. Approximate routed worked out. Other hotel and B&Bs to be booked along the way. Bike had its first service. Paniers were fitted. Gear mostly sorted. Cent was going to stay with Helen and David. He struggles to walk now and their house is ideal – bed, garden and food all within short reach and on one level. He has Misty their gorgeous Australian Shepherd for company. Although a lot younger and far more energetic, she loves spending time with him. And then there is Ailsa, Helen’s younger daughter, who dotes after both dogs and literally spends hours cuddling them. As retirement homes go – Cent had got it made.
Last thing for us was a zip wire. The world’s fastest zip wire is the 1.5km “Velocity 2” in Snowdonia. We had been eyeing this up for a while. Ian, a good friend of ours came along. He and I had built zip wires of an experimental nature in days past. It would be fun to see how the professionals did it. Turned out to be great fun. You are briefed, equipped and packed off to a little zip wire. This is still way longer than any of our woodland constructions and quite enough to focus your attention. The assistants strap you in and check everything while you lie on a short padded bench. Then the bench drops down and you are hanging, head first, on the zip wire. 3-2-1 and you are flying. It is really quite exhilarating. Momentarily you are swooping down a mountainside with the ground flashing past underneath. From the bottom of the short wire trucks ferry the fliers up to the real zip wire. This is when things start to feel a bit more serious. It really is a long way above the lake. The group we were with became noticeably quieter. Fortunately the people that check and re-check the harnesses all seem very competent so I found I could relax a little to enjoy the view. This time the acceleration was much more noticeable and the sensation of swooping out over the lake was terrific. There was even time to have a look around and see where the others were. The braking system at the end is quite abrupt. At the point the brakes engage the ground is close and moving very fast. Suddenly you have to come to terms with not swooping any more. Then remember to breath as you are pulled upright and detached from the wire. We all stood and grinned for a while before heading for the café.
Italy. We were finally on our way. First stage was north to Newcastle, in the rain, to catch a ferry to Amsterdam. The bike was shiny and clean. Our clothing was clean. Everything was fresh and happy. Even the rain did not dampen our spirits. We were on the road again.
The ferry was ordinary but I think it makes a great way to start a journey. We disembarked after a good night’s sleep and an excellent breakfast, ready to tackle the day. You kind of need this because the first part of the trip, down through the Netherlands and Belgium is a bit of a slog. Wind it up on the motorway and try not to fall asleep. The day was overcast and damp and a bit boring. Next day was similar. We hacked across France and stopped just short of the Swiss border. Day three and the trip began to get more interesting. We bought a vignette (road toll ticket) for the bike as we crossed into Switzerland. The Alps hove into view through the mist and the occasional glint of snow made me smile. There are good roads through the Swiss valleys and despite the clouds we could see green lakes and rocky mountains. South of Chur we left the main road network and stopped in the village of Bonaduz. Here we had rented a small studio for the night. One room with a bed, a kitchen area and a seating area. The key was in the door and we never met the host. It all worked out fine though. We found a local shop to buy breakfast things and a small restaurant for the evening. Next day we packed the bike and left the key in the door where we had found it. I suspect this sort of arrangement works better in Switzerland than some other places.
We climbed out of the valley and up to the Splügen Pass. The road is steep with numerous hairpin bends. Part way up were roadworks and we were directed onto an unmetalled section still damp from earlier rain. A heavily laden bike with pillion and road tyres is not ideal for doing muddy switchbacks. We had a few nervous moments but we prevailed. The hill start feature on the new bike was particularly helpful. With relief we arrived at the top and the border to Italy. We were there. Lake Como, the Dolomites, Rome and the whole of Italy was spread out below us. Well sort of. All we could actually see was an Italian flag flapping damply in the mist. But in our minds, the great adventure had begun.
