We were trying to find our way to a rock tower called La Cathérdrale. In the morning, we descended from our lofty overnight perch over a thousand metres down to the village of Anergui. There was a sign in the centre of the village directing us towards La Cathérdrale. It even had a picture of the rock tower on it. We set off confidently but were stopped a couple of hundred metres later by a police officer. There are roadworks he asserted. We attempted to discuss the situation but were stonewalled. No option other than to back track. Later we discovered that in fact the road is still under construction and, so far, nowhere near completion. The large tourist orientated signpost in Anergui is a future truth.
Back up the hill and then a big loop round to the north to join the R302 at Ouaouizaght. Fortunately, we did not have to ask directions because I have no idea how to even begin pronouncing Ouaouizaght. We crossed one end of a large reservoir and then started climbing. Just as we passed the base of the immense rock tower that is La Cathérdrale, the tarmac gave out. Delicately we nudged out way through overhanging trees and then resumed climbing on a rough track up a densely forested steep slope. The sun was getting low and the view spectacular. However, if you ever want to take good photographs of La Cathérdrale from here then come in the morning. We mostly had the sun in our eyes, which was very moody but hopeless for the camera. An hour or so later, at an altitude of 1,500m we regained the tarmac and stopped for the night. Despite being reasonably high, it was still a hot and not very comfortable night.
La Cathérdrale
Next day we climbed even higher through some small villages and then took a left up a dirt track to arrive at a col at 1,700m. Morocco is having a bit of a heatwave at the moment. So, given that Morocco in the summer is already too hot for us, a heatwave is a bit of a problem. The best we can do is try to stay high in the mountains or on the coast. There were some petroglyphs by the road and a nice parking area so we stayed a couple of nights. In the evening a gentle breeze was a fresh and cool. Next day we walked up a track onto the shoulder some 300m higher up and discovered some old mine workings. Iron ore was my best guess. Did not look to have been very successful though and there were only a few shallow diggings. I found a nice looking lump of very heavy rock that I think may be iron ore and brought it back.
While we were hiding from the heat, Coronavirus politics have been unfolding. In particular, the EU is about to open its borders and has voted a list of safe countries which includes Morocco. This means, I think, that we can travel from Morocco into Europe without quarantine or other restrictions. At the same time, Morocco is talking about opening its borders on the 10th July. Do not forget that both sides of a border need to agree that it is open for it genuinely to be passable. We have a ferry to Genova booked for the 13th of July so it is possible, just possible, that this time it may actually run.
Filled with renewed optimism we descended through the beautifully named Aït Bouguemez or Valley of the Happy People. Apparently the name was given by foreign visitors impressed by the hospitality of the locals. It is a very pretty area although some of the smaller villages took a bit of care to squeeze Baloo though. Eventually we arrived at the large town of Demnate and the chance for fuel, food and water. In the evening we headed south, back towards the mountains, and found a nice spot just high enough to cool off in the evening.
Sitting on a petroglyph 
Counting sheep 
Valley of the Happy People